Strawberry Jam Fairy

starting point

 Today I was told that I was the Strawberry Jam fairy by a guest at Westfield, as I was delivering some samples of jam that we'd made at Westfield, to some nearby busy staff members.   

I was working with Ryan today, who is great fun to be with.  He doesn't mind helping out with things, including talking with people, any cleaning chores etc.   Today, he helped with the strawberry jam, which I'd planned to make on the Happy Thoughts Wood cook stove.  

Most jam recipes in historical cookery books call for a 1:1 ratio in weight of

Almost done

fruit to sugar.   The Wife's Own Book of Cookery, 1856, has recipes which call for 1 to .75 ratio of fruit to sugar.  This makes an amazingly flavourful jam.   Today I used 1 kg of strawberries to 750g of sugar.   It was cooked on a wood stove, using a cast iron pot.   I used frozen berries for convenience.  They were still frozen when the jam was started, so they we took turns manually chopping them with a wooden spatula we had to stir with.   It worked well.   The spatula was about 4 inches wide and had small holes in it, which worked a treat at keeping the jam from sticking to the bottom of the pot.

Jam and tea

We cooked it until it started to thicken up and the bubbles blooped appropriately.   When the jam is starting to thicken, the boiling changes and you can tell when it is done.  We were given little paper cups for handing out samples.  We had about 1/4 of the cast iron pot of jam when done, and used most of it up for samples.    It took about an hour to make the jam and for most of that hour, the house smelled awesomely of strawberries.  We also took turns stirring as the jam needed to be constantly stirred for the whole hour.

You don't need to add any water to the fruit in the beginning.  The sugar quickly draws out the moisture from the fruit creating all the liquid that is needed to make the jam.   Early recipes don't add lemon like modern recipes.  This drops the ph to help keep the bacteria away.   Since there was no intention to keep this jam for months, because we were eating it fresh, it wasn't needed anyway.   If I were to make this jam to eat over the winter, I might add a tbsp of lemon juice.  I'd also pre-heat the jars to add the hot jam once it was made, and water bath can the filled jam jars for 10 minutes.  This length of time changes with different altitudes.    

Also, the tea is gingerale.   It looks quite proper in the cups and hides the modern drink well.  I didn't bring enough water with me for both clean up and tea, so this made an acceptable drink with our taste test of the jam.

1839 chocolate ice cream

I made a chocolate ice cream recipe from The Kentucky Housewife cookbook, published in 1839.  I did a bit of research on 18th and 19th century ice creams before I settled on this particular recipe.  It's not completely authentic though I followed the receipt, but chocolate as we know it, be it bar chocolate or even processed cocoa is not the same product as it was in earlier times.   Also, not having a sorbetiere, or even a manual ice cream maker, I ended up using my electric ice cream maker, which I will admit is very enjoyable to use.

Several cookery books have very specific instructions on how to make ice cream, but no, or few actual recipes.   However the 1830 The Cooks Dictionary tells us not only how to make ice cream, but how to adjust recipes for "creams" to make ice cream, as well as having a number of different ice cream recipes.   Most of the cookbooks have recipes for creams, which are custardy, mousse, pudding-like desserts.  Apparently you just make the cream recipe a little less thick and then use it to make ice cream.  

Because I didn't have enough cocoa on hand, and wasn't going to town for a few days, I used baker's chocolate.  I know a number of the recipes call for mixing the chocolate with water, which would be a cocoa product, not bar chocolate as it would seize.   I grated it and it made this lovely pile of soft, tiny chocolate flakes which melted easily into the milk mixture.    Because the chocolate was semi-sweet, I cut the amount of sugar in the ice cream as well.   I used a 10% cream mixture because we only had 1% milk and even our whole milk doesn't have enough fat content to qualify for "rich, sweet milk".   Also because a litre of that mixture was cheaper than purchasing a litre of whole milk and a container of double or whipping cream.   I also only used 4 eggs because my chooks are laying very large eggs, with large yolks.    I followed the directions, melting the chocolate in the milk mixture and then letting it cool a bit.  Then I added the yolks and the sugar  and brought the mixture up to just a boil.   This is pretty important as it cooks the eggs.   I stirred it constantly.   When the custard had boiled just a tad, I removed it from the heat.   I let it cool a bit, then transferred it to a bowl, covered it with plastic wrap and put it into the fridge overnight.  While this step is obviously modern, it is one of the procedures that is suggested in the instructions of the modern ice cream maker.

The next morning, I put the now fairly thick and cold custard into the ice cream maker and in about 15 minutes the ice cream was quite thick.   The instructions say to freeze twice.   In reality this means to pack the ice cream into a mould and re-freeze by setting it in the ice and salt mixture.   I didn't have a suitable mould, so instead I packed it into a lined loaf pan and set it into the freezer.   This second freezing allows the semi-soft frozen ice cream to harden up nicely.  

The ice cream scooped up nicely.  It was so creamy and rich.   It had a great mouth feel and felt very decadent.   I would use less chocolate next time, and try it with a mixture of cocoa and chocolate, which might replicate the actual period chocolate available.   

Would I make this again?   Indeed.  It was well worth the effort.   There is a recipe for peach ice cream in this book and there are tinned peaches left in my cupboard.   That will be the next recipe to try.