First thing to know. Lanolin needs hot water and soap to be removed. The water needs to be at least 120F, to "melt" off the fibre. A bit hotter is better so that you have some working time. If the water cools too quickly, it may settle back on the fibre. If your hot water source isn't hot enough as some water heaters have safety measures of lower temperatures, you need to heat up water on the stove or in your kettle to add. While I'm using a laundry tub for this demo, this applies to using your top loading washer if you're using it to soak and spin your fleece.
Washed fleece should not be this dirty! |
Remember - felting is caused by 2 things. First, is agitation. Be gentle when you move the fibre through the water. The second, is temperature changes. It's not hot water that shrinks sweaters, but going from a hot wash to a cold rinse, or the agitation cycle of the washing machine. You always need to be careful that the water temperatures remain close to the same, or if you leave for a while, that you use the same temperature water as you just drained out.
Start the hot water and add the soap and degreaser, or wool wash. Once the tub is full, gently press in some fleece. Don't over load the tub. You want enough fleece to be a full layer, allowing enough depth in the water for water to move through the fleece and not be bogged down with depth. This will help get the dirt and lanolin out of the fleece. It usually takes several washings to get the dirt out of the fleece and then several rinses to remove the soap. I found so many short cuts and neppy bits with this fleece that I ended up repurposing my little strainer to scoop up as many bits as I could.
Non-scientific explanation of how the soap does it's job when washing fleece - When the water is hot enough for the lanolin to melt and has enough soap etc, the lanolin gets attached to the soap and the soap gets attached to the water. This means when you drain the tub, the lanolin gets washed away with the water. The soap is hydrophilic and hydrophobic which is the science stuff you need. The soap will do the same to a lot of the dirt.
Once the wash water is clear or at least clearish, you can start rinsing. Remember the water temperature should be similar to what you just used. Washing should be in hot water, but rinsing just needs to be in similar temperatures to the water as it's cooling down. Here you can see that there is still soap in the water and some dirt or dirty water being removed, so it will need another rinse.
Once the rinse water is clear and not soapy, you're almost finished. Now you need to gently squeeze out the excess water. You can do this with a towel, or if you have a mesh bag, you can put the wet wool in it, go outside and use centrifugal force by whizzing it over your head to remove the water. If you have. a fancy extractor that works well. I have an old lettuce spinner which does the trick, although it's a slower solution.
I'm a bit ticked because I shouldn't have had to rewash the fleece, if it had been done properly in the first place. I'm glad I hadn't noticed that it was supposedly washed because I would have hated to run that through a friend's equipment.
Excellent post, Nina. Such a good refresher for me. I managed to hang onto several nice fleeces, but now they are decades old. The lanolin preserved them nicely but it is sooo dried out on them. I washed part of one last summer and thought how curious it was that I'd forgotten the details of how to do it. (It's been the same with my weaving!) I've never used a degreaser, though, but it sounds like that would help these fleeces tremendously.
ReplyDeleteDegreaser would help with the dried lanolin for sure. There are a bunch of different ways to wash a fleece but this one works well if you don't need to maintain lock structure. It also cleans a fair bit at a time, which since washing fleece can be time consuming, is a bonus.
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