Update on the coat I'm making. I found the fabric in storage, having bought it ages ago. It's a 2/2 twill which I'm pretty sure came from an unlabelled sale rack. I did a flame test and it self extinguished and turned to a fine ash, so I think it's probably a wool blend of some kind. It sews up quite nicely.
Here is my effort at a welted pocket with a flap. I've done one welted pocket before and this one turned out quite nicely. They aren't actually difficult, just fussy. I'm happy that the underside looks as nice as the outside. The pattern didn't call for an upper welt, but I think if I had to do it over, I'd probably put one in, just because it isn't too much more work. These pockets are large enough to be more than decorative.
I sort of wish I'd been able to find a nice polished cotton or some other interesting fabric for the lining, at least all but the sleeves, but in the time I had, this regular old lining fabric was the best solution I could find.
The peplum lining is mainly sewn in by hand. It's slip stitched along the hemline and on the back opening. On the back, the two sides are slip stitched together. This is when I really love my old thimble that actually fits. Black on black, with black thread is something I'd not put into the equation. Good thing my sewing room has pretty decent lighting.
The jacket top only really needs a few things left to do. I should go back inside and do a bit of support stitching. The buttons and button holes need to be made and if I have time, I'll do a prick stitch from the underside of the lapels to give them a bit of stability. The pattern doesn't call for it, nor does it call for top stitching but it looks a little unfinished without something . Perhaps the weight of the peplum will give it a more polished look.
What's left to do? First, slip stitching the other half of the peplum lining. Then assemble the two halves. Attach the peplum to the top. Then it's make the button holes and sew on the buttons! Before the coat can be worn though, it will need a very thorough dehairing from the shedding cats.
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